BEAN TO CHIKMAGALUR
I had been to Chikmagalur many years ago when I was a kid. I have fond memories of a hilly town and hot kaapi. The whole scenario was somehow reminiscent of’ Malgudi Days’. Mist covered mornings, the town square, little cafes where the local and national news was discussed over steaming filter coffee. Growing up, the image had remained in memory. So, when we reached Kerala on the annual holiday with family, we decided to explore Chikmagalur once again. This time around, this visit was planned by my young son who wanted to know more about coffee.
It was the Christmas holidays and we planned a road trip from my parents place in Kannur to Chikmagalur. The newly bought SUV was being put to test. It would take around six hours to reach our destination. So, the day after Christmas, we set out on the trip. There were six of us, wife, two kids, and parents. We stopped for lunch at Gonikoppal in south Kodagu. The flavours of chicken had a slight change from the usual fare back at home and the kids loved it. The drive was least tiring as the weather was pleasant and the route had some great sightseeing attractions.
The ghats were beautiful as always. The clouds and Sun played hide and seek created stretches of shade and Sun along the drive. The SUV was just lovely on the roads and it was absolutely comfortable. As we drove up, we saw more and more of farms with ginger plants, Cardomom, pepper and coffee. There was greenery all around. The Sun was waning as we drove into the estate where we would be staying during our holiday.
We freshened up and got out to see the golden glow of setting Sun. Our host had put few deck chairs to view the splendour. Soon the aroma of freshly brewed coffee wafted in the air and the hot brew was soon brought to us. The invigorating coffee was splendid. Dad was asking for more and the taste of Chikmagalur coffee was an absolute hit as always.
Morning meant more cups of coffee and steaming idlisbefore we set out to trek the hills. Our guide appaji was an old timer who filled us with information about the place, coffee, traditions and beliefs. It was fun. He took us to a plantation where the morning pickers were just returning to the processing centre. My son wanted to touch the beans which they allowed. Then we saw the washing area and drying the Sun. Appaji explained how the coffee beans are graded once by machines and then by hand to ensure that the grading is perfect. He said that after drying, the beans were sold at auctions houses. Blenders and roasters buy it and come up with unique blends. Then the blends is tested and tasted by master tasters who attribute it a value.
While having the simple lunch was arranged at the plantation canteen, the kids were all excited with this new found knowledge. They were amazed how much effort goes into the making of coffee. After lunch we had some freshly brewed coffee too. By now it was late afternoon. Appaji arranged a jeep to drop us off at our estate.